Male mate value

**Mary** · 04-06-2012, 12:19 AM

MALE MATE VALUE

Before you start dwelling into the topic of male mate value, if you're a man, please forget everything that has ever been said by so called male pick-up artists, if you've been reading any of that in hope of getting a girlfriend.

Men are not that complicated, and therefore, the male male attractiveness ladder is somewhat shorter than the female one.

Men should be evaluated like dogs. They fall into one of the following categories. To save myself the trouble of reinventing the wheel I will simply quote the essentials from a book. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF Guard Dog Training:

WHICH KIND?
Your first step toward acquiring the right type of personal protection
dog is to examine your own needs and environment carefully before you
look at a dog. Next, consider the three definite categories of personal
protection dogs and align your efforts accordingly. They are:
1. The dog whose sole function is to give alarm.
2. The dog who gives alarm and offers some physical threat to an
intruder.
3. The real man-stopper, whose temperament and physical qualities make
him a game and capable fighter.
Your correct choice of a dog will be determined in great measure by the
type of protection dog you need.

Spoiler!

Right Ones and Wrong Ones
Whatever kind of dog you seek, you will find it interesting and helpful
to consider the following comparison of two types of prospects: the
qualified and the unqualified. This information is not intended to
suggest that at the present time you can find a breeder producing dogs
for your specific purpose, but rather to prove to you that there are
indissoluble differences in the quality of dogs which cannot be
minimized by training and environment. The facts on this comparison are
found in a book entitled The New Knowledge, of Dog Behavior, by Clarence
Pfaffenberger (Howell Book House).
While dog trainers had long been aware of the great variation in ability
between individual dogs, it remained for Mr. Pfaffenberger and those
who worked with him to substantiate that difference with statistics.
Knowledgeable professionals have accepted the book's evidence as fact.
You can avoid wasting a great deal of time by joining in that
acceptance. The material is based on the results obtained by Mr.
Pfaffenberger and his associates through their work at the Roscoe B.
Jackson Memorial Laboratory, Bar Harbor, Maine, and at Guide Dogs For
The Blind, Inc., San Rafael, California, in initially adapting the best
dogs they could find to guide the blind and later breeding their own
candidates especially for guide dog work. When their procurement
program consisted of acquiring the very best prospects from the most
favorable sources available, only 9 percent of the trainees completed
the program successfully. During a 14-year period, which encompassed a
program of study and purposeful breeding, they learned to produce a
strain of puppies of which 90 percent have made successful guide dogs.
The program therefore resulted in an improvement of one thousand
percent! The purposeful breeding instilled in the puppies a sense of
responsibility and other qualities essential in guide dogs.
These startling results are not offered to suggest that you must find a
purposeful breeder who is producing dogs for your particular needs.
Rather, the two-fold objective of these truths is to impress upon you
the great difference in potential between one dog and another, even when
they are of the same breed, and to help you realize that you must find a
"right one" even though he is the result of chance and not the
predictable product of a dedicated breeder. This necessity applies to
each of the three categories of personal protection dogs. Whatever kind
of dog you need, your evaluations must be made among dogs that are at
least one year old.

Spoiler!

THE ALARM DOG
His Job
The job of an alarm dog is to detect and announce any person approaching
the area he serves. He is useful in situations where an alarm is needed
but where biting, or even the threat of biting, could not be permitted.
Examples are places where the proprietor needs to know of each arrival
but, because the callers are few, does not spend time watching the
entrance.
Qualifications
Because such a dog need not offer the threat of physical protection,
there are no minimum requirements for size and strength. One of the
small breeds can be as good an alarm dog as the largest dog. There are
obvious advantages to a smaller dog in some situations. The smaller
dogs are usually longer lived than the larger ones and often have more
robust constitutions, as a veterinarian will tell you. Even the Toy
breeds come in such a variety of coats that they can take all extremes
of temperature and weather, from the coldest and wettest to the hottest
and driest. In Chapters 7-10 you will find information common to many
breeds of protection dogs.
Checking Prospects
When you have learned of a good prospect, try to make your first visit
to his home a surprise so that you can see the dog as he usually acts
and discover things which you may not see if special arrangements were
made for your visit. Note carefully where he is kept, how he alerts,
whether he barks too much or not enough, and other factors that might be
important to you. Don't overlook a bad fault and then complain about it
later. For example, determine if he is such a constant barker that he
would have to be confined where he would do you little good. Observe
whether his alertness is solely the result of a panicky shyness.
Undeniably, a shy dog motivated by uncertainty will sometimes make a
useful alarm dog, but a dog that is sound in temperament can do the job
better and is more pleasant to be near.
As you talk, watch for any peculiarities the owner may have which would
make you question his opinions. Emphasize that you will provide full
measure of care and kindness for any dog you select but it will be kept
only if it fills your need for an alarm. Such a condition will tend to
keep accurate the claims made for a dog.
Testing
There is a simple test you can use to check an alarm dog that seems
worth further consideration. Arrange to call again at the dog's home
accompanied by two other persons, who will wait a short distance from
the house until after you have been admitted. Not only will you get a
second chance to study how the dog reacts to your approach, but it will
give you the opportunity to see whether the dog is so distracted by your
presence that the individual approach of the other two strangers" will
go unnoticed. If the dog shows enough responsibility to concern himself
with each separate arrival, he is worth a trial if you've found that he
qualifies in other respects.

Spoiler!

THE THREAT DOG
His Job
You would not be afraid of a dog who turns tail and runs from you;
neither would anyone else. The dog who barks and runs away from the
advance of a stranger may make a good alarm dog, but he could hardly be
suitable candidate for the second classification of a personal
protection dog, the dog who provides a threat as well as an alarm.
Qualifications
Although the threat dog should not be overly aggressive, he must have
the courage to stand his ground staunchly against anyone who tries to
bluff his way past him. This need for courage and alertness means that
much care must be used in selecting the dog.
In considering first the general type of dog for the job, remember that,
in posing a threat, a dog's attitude is more important than his size.
True, there is something impressive about a large dog standing firmly in
the path of an intruder. But there is something equally impressive
about the right kind of a small terrier who appears ready for violent
action.
You would kick a small terrier out of the way? You would walk right
over him? I know of bears that have been detained when they tried just
that. However, size itself can be quite a deterrent and, if a smaller
dog is your choice, it is doubly important that he be right physically
and temperamentally. For an example of how structure can make a great
difference between two breeds of dogs of similar size, compare the Pug
with one of the smaller terriers. The Pug's head, while large for his
size, has such a flat face and small teeth that it would not scare a
determined intruder. When the terrier snarls he reveals a well-equipped
mouth that is big enough to grab a lot of leg, pants and all.
You will find further information common to all types of protection
dogs, and methods of finding them, in Chapters 7 through 10.
Testing a Threat Dog
You have at least tentatively made the preliminary decisions on the
breeds which seem suitable to your purpose and the age of the prospects
you will seek. Those sources of information mentioned in Chapter 10
will soon supply you with enough leads to make a start.
The following step will save you much time. If possible, before you go
to look at a prospect, phone its owner and explain that you need a dog
with enough courage to stand up to a person who will try to bluff him
down. Make it clear that you will want to watch while a stranger does
the testing. If an owner objects to such a proposal, eliminate his dog.
Without a test for this essential quality, there is no reason to
consider any other virtues the dog might have.
When you have obtained an owner's consent to test his dog, arrange to
have someone who can follow directions capably to do the testing while
you watch from a concealed place. The dog should be tested in as close
to the normal home situation as possible, but he must be within a fence,
or tied, while the test takes place so that there is no danger of a
bite. The owner should not be within sight when the testing is done, as
his presence may encourage the dog to react differently.
Your tester should have a burlap sack and a cap gun to snap, with or
without caps. If the dog is shy, he'll back up from the clicking. Ask
the tester to walk in a normal manner to a point where the dog will
alert, and then to proceed to within a few feet of the dog where he
should make a threatening swing with the sack and snap the gun two or
three times. If the dog continues to oppose your helper's entry after
the sack is swung toward him and the gun is snapped, the tester should
turn and leave the area. The dog should indicate by his actions that he
has sufficient staunchness to discourage most intruders, which will
serve your purpose.
If your situation is one in which a dog would have to exercise
discretion and be easily controlled, another simple test, which you can
give personally, will be required. By arrangement with the owner, visit
the dog's yard or household when the dog is at liberty to stop you, and
see how much difficulty the owner has in bringing him under control so
that you can be admitted. In short, is the dog staunch enough for your
purpose, and yet controllable enough so that you wouldn't have to
confine him in such a way that he would be useless?

Spoiler!

THE MAN-STOPPER
His Job
A true man-stopper does not merely show a willingness to fight. His job
is to stop a man, if necessary, by winning a fight.
Qualifications
A strong sense of responsibility. Unless he feels responsible, a dog
may be easily distracted from his purpose of physical defense.
Awareness. He must be keenly alert and aware of situations that
develop.
Decisiveness. It is not enough for him to be aware and concerned. He
must act with sufficient force. Courage. He must be able to stand up
to threat and pain.
Capability. He must have the mental and physical abilities to be a
formidable opponent.
Reasonableness. When you admit someone to your premises, your dog
should respect your judgment but remain alert. The maniacal,
uncontrollable dog is not only dangerous-he's useless, being shut away
much of the time when his presence would be a comfort.
To find a dog who meets the above requirements and can then reorient
these qualities to another master can be very difficult. Generally, a
pup with such potential is more adaptable to a household than an adult
would be. However, you will probably find that, since the methods for
seeking and choosing an adult are the same as for finding and
accrediting a pup, through the performance of his relatives, you can
start looking and let your decisions be influenced by the best that is
available.
You will find further information common to all types of protection
dogs, and methods of finding them, in Chapters 7 through 10.
Checking Prospects
Use all available information so that you will have a full perspective
on what is obtainable. Keep in mind all the breeds mentioned as
suitable, instead of one or two. Truly, handsome is as handsome does in
the case of a man-stopper. Regardless of what he looks like, the most
beautiful dog you will find is the one who would give his life to save
yours.
The following suggestion may help you acquire additional facts about the
dogs to which your leads may take you. From some of the breeders you
will meet, or from the pages of dog magazines, you can obtain the names
of the secretaries and other officers of regional and national breed
clubs. These officers, along with the writers of the breed columns,
often possess quite a knowledge of the accomplishments of various
breeding programs. Although it's true that there is a degree of "kennel
blindness" in the dog fancy, it is just as true that a person who would
fault a rival's dog as not being of the "right type" will concede the
same dog's superiority in demonstrated characteristics such as
protectiveness and trainability. When they learn that you need a dog
for such an exacting task as maximum protection, they will try to tell
you of a person who, either by intent or by chance, produces dogs that
are conceded to be the best for your needs. They realize that in
questions of performance, unlike those of eye-appeal, comparison is
generally conclusive.
If your discussions turn up any information on people who have been
active in obedience work, talk with them. They are interested in
temperament and may be able to tell you about common faults and virtues
that they have observed in certain lines of dogs. Both professionals
and amateurs may be of help in this respect.
You will find that your leads to dogs and information will generate more
leads, and you will eventually have some prospects worth testing. The
tests are surprisingly simple.
The Responsibility Test
The first is a test to see whether a dog will stay with a person or
property by his own free choice when there are obvious and inviting
opportunities to leave. Remember that no guard dog is any good when
he's gone. Even more important is the truth that a dog who lacks the
responsibility to stay with his charges rarely makes a good protector
when he is with them. Conversely, a dog who concerns himself with
staying where he belongs is one who will act effectively when his
charges are threatened. These facts emphasize the foolishness of
skipping this test merely because there seems to be no possibility of
your dog escaping from confinement. Apply the test in the same manner
to adult prospects and to the parents or close relatives of any puppy
prospect you might consider. The best possible way of determining the
traits a family of dogs possesses is by observing those traits in dogs
of that family.
You will soon see that an explanation of how you intend to test
prospects will cause many owners to retract their statements on their
"great" dogs, thus saving you much time. Have the owner of each dog you
test take him by car away from his premises, and, in a strange area,
free him from any restraint. Without commanding the dog in any way, the
man should walk slowly along. From a distance, watch to see whether the
dog is so distracted or tempted by his new surroundings that he forgets
all about his master. A dog with the qualities of a good guard dog
might drift around a bit, noticing all things in his environment, but he
would show concern with his master's whereabouts, and at definite
intervals would swing back close to him to demonstrate his
responsibility. Such a dog would be worthy of further consideration.
If, when he is not restrained, a dog finds his new surroundings so
interesting that he forgets to keep track of his master, you had better
look elsewhere for a natural protector.
As previously stated, merely considering such a test will cause many
owners to withdraw their dogs with such excuses as, "He's had no
training," or "He's never been out of the yard." You'll gain more than
you'll lose from these withdrawals.
The second step in testing is to arrange with the dog's owner for a
demonstration of what happens when a gate or door is accidentally left
open. Watch the proceedings from a distance so that you will be of no
interest to the dog. A dog who is accustomed to confinement is
sometimes slow to notice an opportunity to leave an area, so be sure
that your prospect makes a choice between staying and leaving. The
owner should remain concealed and quiet so that he does not influence
the situation.
Ideally, a responsible dog should be concerned with staying on "his"
property. Don't write him off completely if he saunters outside his
area and putters around in a way that demonstrates he is still more
concerned with home and fireside than with the call of the open road.
However, if he shows that his heartstrings are but frail threads against
the pull of adventure, and with his unconcern indicates that you could
steal the house from behind him, you'd better say "Thanks, but no
thanks." What makes such a dog appear to be a demon guard when
confinement forces him to confront an intruder is not the thing that
will make him a dog to ride the river with.
The Capability Test
The nature of this test may frighten off another block of owners. Again,
good riddance-you claim you want a real "stopper."
For this very careful procedure, you will need complete understanding
and cooperation from the dog's owner and assistance from a
well-coordinated man who will follow your instructions carefully. Your
helper should be equipped with a burlap sack and a gun for blank-firing.
Even if you were willing that your helper be bitten, you would find no
volunteers, so in order to protect the man, you will have to choose
between having the dog securely chained or confined and having him wear
a safe muzzle. Though it will confuse some dogs, the muzzle is by far
the better choice. See that the owner of the dog you are considering
has an opportunity to familiarize his dog with the muzzle by having him
wear it during short periods for two days before the test.
Meet with the owner and your helper in a place where the dog cannot see
or hear any of you talking together, and arrange to have the dog muzzled
and in a definite place so that your "heavy" can force an entrance and
make the test. Explain to the owner that the place of the test must
provide a means of your watching the action without attracting the dog's
attention, and permit him to be close at hand for any emergency, yet out
of the dog's sight. All concerned should realize that there should be
no oral communication between any of you, because at best it's difficult
to create a test situation that will ring true to a good dog. Be
definite about the time of entry and the signal that will tell the man
that the muzzle is in- place and all is ready. The lighting of a light
or the closing of a drape are easy ways of signaling.
When he gets the signal, the "heavy," gun in one hand and the sack in
the other, should approach the point of challenge, which will probably
be the door or gate. Regardless of whether the dog meets him head on or
hangs back a bit, the heavy should move steadily toward him. The man
should snap the cap gun a couple of times, hit the dog with a hard swipe
of the sack, and retreat from the area, shoving the dog back away from
him if necessary so that the gate or door can be closed. If the muzzled
dog tries to fight the man in the face of the gun and club-like sack,
there should be little doubt that he would make things rough for an
intruder. If he stands his ground while trying to free himself of the
muzzle, you can logically conclude that he would fight effectively
without that handicap. Muzzled or not, if he shows he would sooner
retreat than fight, he's not the kind of dog you need.
The foregoing tests will reveal whether or not a dog has the qualities
that will make him a good personal protector. However, there are other
factors that can determine how acceptable he may be in your situation.
Your own observation of the physical situation in which he lives can
tell you much about a dog's living habits. A thorough questioning of
the owner will give you more information. Remember, many undesirable
traits are definitely inherited and you should check for their existence
in the relatives of a puppy prospect as well as in an adult.

So basically there are:

1. Muppets

These are the men that talk and whine a lot. These are the kinds that most women will want to avoid.

2. Regulars

This is your Average Joe. He might be up for a Bro-Down. But he's never going to fight. A good father and provider. He will work for most women.

3. Fighters

This is a guy that is a bit crazy. He takes what he wants on his own, without any help or prop-up from anyone. He should be willing and able to kill anyone on the spot and not care. He makes you feel uneasy, but you have great sex with him (as a woman!).

This is just my take. Feel free to chime in.