Atlantic Islander
09-17-2013, 07:20 AM
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Architectural Archipelago
Ålesund, Norway: Northern Lights & Sights
Art nouveau architecture. A Norwegian food festival and a historic harbor. Fjords and mountains. Ålesund could be the backdrop for a Nordic fairy tale—with a modern plot twist.
The Scene Sprawled on a collection of rugged North Sea islands with mountains looming in every direction, Ålesund is the quintessential Scandinavian seaport. But the town’s unusual concentration of Jugendstil, or art nouveau architecture, built after a devastating fire in 1904 makes it a design destination.
City Gem Let the pros point out the turrets, towers, and decorative flourishes of the city’s distinctive architecture on a guided tour through its cobblestone streets. The highlight of the walk is a stop at the Jugendstilsenteret, a former pharmacy, now the interpretive Art Nouveau Centre with an impeccably preserved interior.
Insider’s Tip Climb the 418 steps to the top of local mountain Aksla for a sweeping vista of the town center, fjords, and the Sunnmøre Alps. “Locals go to the Kniven and Rundskue overlooks, where you have spectacular 360-degree views,” says Ålesund resident Bertil Holen. Here’s where to snap that shot that will make you the momentary envy of your Instagram friends. And, as Holen points out with a wink, “it’s for free”—a bit of a rarity in a notoriously pricey nation.
Local Flavor Ålesunders love their svele—a sort of crepe filled with butter and sugar or brunost, a caramelized cheese made from whey—with a cup of strong coffee, a snack that’s popular on local ferries. But bacalao is their mainstay: Ålesund exports more of the dried, salted cod, also known as klipfish, than anywhere else in the world. Try it at XL Diner, where chef Ivar Breivik makes it shine in no less than seven dishes, including the Norwegian comfort classic with bacon and stewed peas. Visit Ålesund in August during the Norwegian Food Festival, and enjoy a bountiful Nordic feast featuring both traditional and daringly modern cuisine made from fresh local ingredients.
Nightlife In the summer, snag a table at an outdoor café and nurse a local Sylte pineapple soda or cold Hansa pilsner. Kick back and watch the sunset around midnight—the light is so intense, say Ålesunders, that the ocean appears to be burning.
By Sea Paddle a kayak down the Brosundet canal through the heart of town, at eye level with the chiseled old salts hawking fresh fish and shrimp off their colorful wooden boats. Rentals are available through Actin and 62 Nord, both of which are found near Queen Sonja’s square. The picturesque fishing village of Alnes, on the island of Godøy (a quick boat or bus ride from Ålesund), is home to a landmark lighthouse. Climb the tower for magnificent views, learn about the coastal culture, and order a slice of the signature lighthouse cake.
Ship Shape About 120 annual cruise calls, including ships from Norwegian Cruise Line, Cunard, and Crystal Cruises. —Margaret Loftus
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Evening Glow
Tallinn, Estonia: A Baltic Port With a Modern Beat
Cobbled streets lined with old, gabled houses. A passion for music. Universal Wi-Fi. Tallinn is an old soul with a zest for life.
The Scene For a city that’s pushing 900 years old, Tallinn has a fresh face and the bravado to support it. A jam-packed performing arts calendar, thriving high-tech community, and the New Nordic food movement have injected this Baltic port with an unstoppable energy.
City Gem With its Gothic spires, historic homes, and winding streets, the Old Town has a Camelot feel and a compact layout that’s easily navigable on foot. Rise above the throngs by taking a stroll on the medieval wall—the portion that connects the Nunna, Sauna, and Kuldjala towers is open to the public—or climb to the top of one of the 20 defensive towers for a view of the red-tiled skyline.
Insider’s Tip The Estonian Song and Dance Festival debuted in Tartu and is now held every five years in Tallinn. But, with an abundant arts calendar, there’s no need to wait until the next one in 2014. “The summer months are filled with open-air festivals and concerts,” says Tallinn native Ene Palmiste. “Estonians just love to use every opportunity to take their lives outdoors. Locals believe that there is no bad weather, just inappropriate clothing.”
Local Flavor Sült (jellied pork), verivorst (blood sausage), and vürtsikilu (spiced Baltic sprat) are seasonal Estonian staples. At avant-garde restaurant Neh, dinner takes a modern turn with edgy dishes such as salted ostrich served with a shot of pine vodka.
Nightlife Party with Tallinn’s chic set at the Butterfly Lounge.
By Sea At Seaplane Harbor, hitch a ride aboard the Kajsamoor, a 1939 schooner, for a two-hour sail along the Tallinn coastline and a spiel on the port’s maritime history.
Ship Shape 293 cruise calls in 2012, including ships from Crystal, Celebrity, Holland America, and Windstar. —Margaret Loftus
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Adriatic Classic
Zadar, Croatia: Design Within Beach
Anchor of a sprawling Adriatic archipelago. Architecture that spans millennia. Public art installations. Zadar is the laid-back little sister to Dubrovnik.
The Scene Flanked by dozens of idyllic Adriatic islands and within an hour’s drive of five national parks, the peninsula city’s natural beauty is matched only by its epic history. For nearly 3,000 years, this port on the northern Dalmatian coast has tried to fend off foreign powers with varying success. Architectural legacies of these interlopers are visible today in the city’s Roman forum and in various Venetian ramparts around town. While the city center is on the Old Town Peninsula, most of Zadar is on the mainland. Modern public art and a lively café scene keep all parts of the city very 21st century.
City Gem With its signature cylindrical shape and distinctive dome, the ninth-century Church of St. Donat has become synonymous with Zadar. No longer used as a church, the monument welcomes visitors and hosts a series of summer concerts—ranging from Brazilian guitarist Daniel Wolff to the Zadar Chamber Orchestra—made all the more resonant by the building’s acoustics.
Insider’s Tip The “Sea Organ,” an art installation of pipes below the new pier, harnesses the energy of the ocean waves to produce an otherworldly soundscape. “The sound is so soothing, and sitting by the water is just a great way to unwind after a day walking around the city,” says Marijana Gucunski, a Croatian expat who spends part of every summer at her family beach home nearby. “Of course, grab a delicious Croatian sladoled (ice cream) on the way.”
Local Flavor This is the Adriatic, land of grilled seafood; you can’t go wrong ordering fish, calamari, and mussels na gradele (grilled). Wash it all down with a glass of rakija (brandy) or travarica (an herbal spirit). For a late-night snack or breakfast, try burek, a savory cheese-filled phyllo pastry, with a cup of the Turkish-style coffee favored by Croats at the myriad of bakeries in Varoš—the historic heart of town—that are open into the wee hours.
Nightlife After dark, any hip Zadrani walks to the Garden, a minimalist-chic boîte atop the city walls opened by UB40 drummer James Brown and music producer Nick Colgan, for live jazz, Latin grooves, or electronica. Sip a local Karlovačko beer and play a game of chess or just soak up the seductive loungey, relaxed atmosphere that seems distinctly European.
By Sea The marina is full of boats vying to ferry you to the Zadar archipelago, where beaches, medieval villages, and snorkeling excursions await. Take a half-day trip to Dugi Otok, the largest island, to spend an idyllic afternoon on the sandy, uncrowded Saharun beach.
Ship Shape 100 annual cruise calls stop in Zadar, including ships from Crystal Cruises, Silversea Cruises, and Voyages to Antiquity. —Margaret Loftus
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Classic Comfort
Gdańsk, Poland: Old Town, New Energy
From star Hanseatic trading port to the straw that broke the back of communist rule, Gdańsk’s thousand-year history is evident everywhere you look.
The Scene Gdańsk grabbed headlines back in the 1980s as the birthplace of the Solidarity movement, which led to the toppling of communist rule in Central Europe, but the town’s history goes much deeper. Part of a triumvirate of cities, with Gdynia and Sopot, the enclave was founded a thousand years ago and once prospered as a Hanseatic League trading port. The city’s Old Town was rebuilt after intense World War II bombing, but it’s still evocative of its heyday. “Everywhere you go you are reminded about the history,” says Kuba Sikorski, a gallery owner in the Old Town. “When you walk through Mariacka Street, it’s so easy to imagine the merchants in their hurry rushing to the port.”
City Gem In an urban center rich with monuments, St. Mary’s Basilica looms largest. Built between the 14th and 16th centuries, it’s one of the grandest brick churches in the world. The interior is just as inspiring with soaring vaults and a 15th-century astronomical clock built by Hans Düringer. Climb the nearly 400 steps to the top of the tower for a memorable panoramic city view.
Insider’s Tip Get an early start, suggests Sikorski. “I love the Old Town early in the morning, when the city slowly wakes up with the sound of church bells—and there are many here—and pigeons fluttering about.” Amble down storied Mariacka Street and marvel at its Gothic buildings, many of them reconstructed to their former glory from original stone.
Local Flavor Invented in Gdańsk in the 16th century when gold was believed to have medicinal properties, gold-flecked herbal Goldwasser liqueur is the local post-pierogi nightcap at Goldwasser Restaurant.
Nightlife Known for its resort spas, Sopot—Gdańsk’s sister city a half-hour train ride away—has become the spot for nightlife with its street performers, restaurants, and clubs (including the iconic Spatif, open since the 1960s) around Bohaterów Monte Cassino Street.
By Sea Windy and natural, Hel Peninsula—a train ride from Gdańsk or an hour via summertime ferry from Gdynia—is nirvana for kite-surfing and windsurfing.
Ship Shape 29 annual cruise calls in Gdańsk; 72 in the sister port of Gdynia, including ships from Princess, Seabourn, and Regent Seven Seas Cruises. —Margaret Loftus
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Rocky Islands
Ajaccio, France: Napoleon’s Island in the Sun
Mediterranean French with Italian flair, Ajaccio is part café society and part mountain culture. But these lush hillsides hide a serious independent streak.
The Scene “Ajaccio, set deep in a curling bay enclosed by high mountains … suggested nothing so much as an eighteenth-century engraving, cut out and pasted on a photograph of this tremendous landscape to make a surrealist collage,” wrote Dorothy Carrington of her approach by ship to the city in her 1971 travel chronicle, Granite Island: A Portrait of Corsica. On land, Carrington became enchanted with the gateway to Corsica—colonized by Greece, ruled for centuries by Genoa, and now a region of France—with its pastel buildings fronting the harbor, palm-fringed public squares, and cheerful cafés.
City Gem You might say that Ajaccio has a Napoleon complex. As the birthplace of General Bonaparte, the town presents multiple paeans to the onetime emperor of France. If you have to choose one, make a pilgrimage to Musée National de la Maison Bonaparte.
Insider’s Tip Explore the Marché Central d’Ajaccio, the daily outdoor market, near the port, says food writer David McAninch, a devotee of Ajaccio. “It’s a great slice of city life. You don’t have to be shopping for food to enjoy it.” But if you are, pick up a selection of charcuterie made from the island’s chestnut-loving pigs and brocciu, a rich ricotta-like cheese made from sheep’s milk. The Tour de France marks its 100th anniversary in 2013, and for the first time, hilly Corsica has not only been included but will be the starting point.
Local Flavor Corsican cuisine was influenced more by the mountains than the sea. Auberge U Licettu, a ten-mile drive into the hills, is as traditional as it gets, serving rustic fare like wild boar and lamb.
Nightlife Café culture rules in Ajaccio. Sit at a table near the harbor and order a glass of crisp Corsican white wine from Patrimonio or a spot of chilled mirto, a digestive made of myrtle berries.
By Sea Hop a three-hour boat excursion with Découvertes Naturelles to tour the rocky and wild Îles Sanguinaires that dot the entrance to the Gulf of Ajaccio.
Ship Shape 250 cruise calls a year, including ships from Princess, Disney, Seabourn, and Costa. —Margaret Loftus
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/3226/loea.jpg
Port of Power
Valletta, Malta: Star of the Mediterranean
With a deep harbor that’s the envy of Europe, a stunning collection of baroque buildings, and a history rich with knights and chivalrous tales, Valletta is the jewel of Mediterranean itineraries.
The Scene Situated at the base of the Maltese archipelago, Valletta is a fortified peninsula jutting into the inlet that forms the Grand Harbour. Built by the Knights of St. John after they defeated the Ottoman Turks in 1565, the city retains much of its baroque character and air of intrigue. For some 2,000 years it was the most coveted port in the Mediterranean; it was often considered the linchpin of the British Empire.
City Gem Built in 1661 for the enjoyment of Italian knights, the Barrakka Gardens weren’t opened to the public until 1824. The commanding views of the Grand Harbour and Valletta’s three sister cities of Senglea, Vittoriosa, and Cospicua are unbeatable. The garden paths are lined with monuments commemorating the island’s tumultuous history, from a tribute to Winston Churchill to a touching trio of street urchins cast in bronze by Maltese sculptor Antonio Sciortino. A cannon is fired at noon and sunset as a salute to British rule on the island.
Insider’s Tip “Must-visits include the Manoel Theatre, one of the oldest still functioning baroque theaters in the world, and St. John’s Co-Cathedral, which is also the home of Caravaggio’s masterpiece ‘Beheading of St. John the Baptist,’” says Maltese-born tenor Joseph Calleja.
Local Flavor Seafood figures prominently on the menus in Valletta—lampuki (dorado), octopus, and snails are big here. The national meal is fenkata, a rabbit feast whose origins date to the days of the knights when rabbit hunting was restricted. Locals get their fenkata fix at Ta’ Soldi in Mgarr, well worth the 30-minute drive inland.
Nightlife The resort areas of Paceville and St. Julian are disco-party central. The mellower crowd heads to the open-air BJ’s Live Music Club for jazz and rock and the seaside Bedouin Bar, a whitewashed version of a traditional nomadic camp, for its casual scene.
By Sea Ship out on a Turkish gulet for a day cruise along the northeast coast of Malta. The best stops include a snorkeling expedition off the island of Gozo—which many believe inspired the mythical Ogygia, where the nymph Calypso held Odysseus captive in Homer’s Odyssey—and in the Blue Lagoon, part of Comino island’s nature reserve.
Ship Shape 311 cruise calls in 2011, including Regents Seven Seas, Seabourn, and Silversea. —Margaret Loftus
source (http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/europe-small-ports-photos-traveler/#/01-ports-alesund-norway_62564_600x450.jpg)
Architectural Archipelago
Ålesund, Norway: Northern Lights & Sights
Art nouveau architecture. A Norwegian food festival and a historic harbor. Fjords and mountains. Ålesund could be the backdrop for a Nordic fairy tale—with a modern plot twist.
The Scene Sprawled on a collection of rugged North Sea islands with mountains looming in every direction, Ålesund is the quintessential Scandinavian seaport. But the town’s unusual concentration of Jugendstil, or art nouveau architecture, built after a devastating fire in 1904 makes it a design destination.
City Gem Let the pros point out the turrets, towers, and decorative flourishes of the city’s distinctive architecture on a guided tour through its cobblestone streets. The highlight of the walk is a stop at the Jugendstilsenteret, a former pharmacy, now the interpretive Art Nouveau Centre with an impeccably preserved interior.
Insider’s Tip Climb the 418 steps to the top of local mountain Aksla for a sweeping vista of the town center, fjords, and the Sunnmøre Alps. “Locals go to the Kniven and Rundskue overlooks, where you have spectacular 360-degree views,” says Ålesund resident Bertil Holen. Here’s where to snap that shot that will make you the momentary envy of your Instagram friends. And, as Holen points out with a wink, “it’s for free”—a bit of a rarity in a notoriously pricey nation.
Local Flavor Ålesunders love their svele—a sort of crepe filled with butter and sugar or brunost, a caramelized cheese made from whey—with a cup of strong coffee, a snack that’s popular on local ferries. But bacalao is their mainstay: Ålesund exports more of the dried, salted cod, also known as klipfish, than anywhere else in the world. Try it at XL Diner, where chef Ivar Breivik makes it shine in no less than seven dishes, including the Norwegian comfort classic with bacon and stewed peas. Visit Ålesund in August during the Norwegian Food Festival, and enjoy a bountiful Nordic feast featuring both traditional and daringly modern cuisine made from fresh local ingredients.
Nightlife In the summer, snag a table at an outdoor café and nurse a local Sylte pineapple soda or cold Hansa pilsner. Kick back and watch the sunset around midnight—the light is so intense, say Ålesunders, that the ocean appears to be burning.
By Sea Paddle a kayak down the Brosundet canal through the heart of town, at eye level with the chiseled old salts hawking fresh fish and shrimp off their colorful wooden boats. Rentals are available through Actin and 62 Nord, both of which are found near Queen Sonja’s square. The picturesque fishing village of Alnes, on the island of Godøy (a quick boat or bus ride from Ålesund), is home to a landmark lighthouse. Climb the tower for magnificent views, learn about the coastal culture, and order a slice of the signature lighthouse cake.
Ship Shape About 120 annual cruise calls, including ships from Norwegian Cruise Line, Cunard, and Crystal Cruises. —Margaret Loftus
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Evening Glow
Tallinn, Estonia: A Baltic Port With a Modern Beat
Cobbled streets lined with old, gabled houses. A passion for music. Universal Wi-Fi. Tallinn is an old soul with a zest for life.
The Scene For a city that’s pushing 900 years old, Tallinn has a fresh face and the bravado to support it. A jam-packed performing arts calendar, thriving high-tech community, and the New Nordic food movement have injected this Baltic port with an unstoppable energy.
City Gem With its Gothic spires, historic homes, and winding streets, the Old Town has a Camelot feel and a compact layout that’s easily navigable on foot. Rise above the throngs by taking a stroll on the medieval wall—the portion that connects the Nunna, Sauna, and Kuldjala towers is open to the public—or climb to the top of one of the 20 defensive towers for a view of the red-tiled skyline.
Insider’s Tip The Estonian Song and Dance Festival debuted in Tartu and is now held every five years in Tallinn. But, with an abundant arts calendar, there’s no need to wait until the next one in 2014. “The summer months are filled with open-air festivals and concerts,” says Tallinn native Ene Palmiste. “Estonians just love to use every opportunity to take their lives outdoors. Locals believe that there is no bad weather, just inappropriate clothing.”
Local Flavor Sült (jellied pork), verivorst (blood sausage), and vürtsikilu (spiced Baltic sprat) are seasonal Estonian staples. At avant-garde restaurant Neh, dinner takes a modern turn with edgy dishes such as salted ostrich served with a shot of pine vodka.
Nightlife Party with Tallinn’s chic set at the Butterfly Lounge.
By Sea At Seaplane Harbor, hitch a ride aboard the Kajsamoor, a 1939 schooner, for a two-hour sail along the Tallinn coastline and a spiel on the port’s maritime history.
Ship Shape 293 cruise calls in 2012, including ships from Crystal, Celebrity, Holland America, and Windstar. —Margaret Loftus
http://imageshack.us/a/img198/9701/eb6e.jpg
Adriatic Classic
Zadar, Croatia: Design Within Beach
Anchor of a sprawling Adriatic archipelago. Architecture that spans millennia. Public art installations. Zadar is the laid-back little sister to Dubrovnik.
The Scene Flanked by dozens of idyllic Adriatic islands and within an hour’s drive of five national parks, the peninsula city’s natural beauty is matched only by its epic history. For nearly 3,000 years, this port on the northern Dalmatian coast has tried to fend off foreign powers with varying success. Architectural legacies of these interlopers are visible today in the city’s Roman forum and in various Venetian ramparts around town. While the city center is on the Old Town Peninsula, most of Zadar is on the mainland. Modern public art and a lively café scene keep all parts of the city very 21st century.
City Gem With its signature cylindrical shape and distinctive dome, the ninth-century Church of St. Donat has become synonymous with Zadar. No longer used as a church, the monument welcomes visitors and hosts a series of summer concerts—ranging from Brazilian guitarist Daniel Wolff to the Zadar Chamber Orchestra—made all the more resonant by the building’s acoustics.
Insider’s Tip The “Sea Organ,” an art installation of pipes below the new pier, harnesses the energy of the ocean waves to produce an otherworldly soundscape. “The sound is so soothing, and sitting by the water is just a great way to unwind after a day walking around the city,” says Marijana Gucunski, a Croatian expat who spends part of every summer at her family beach home nearby. “Of course, grab a delicious Croatian sladoled (ice cream) on the way.”
Local Flavor This is the Adriatic, land of grilled seafood; you can’t go wrong ordering fish, calamari, and mussels na gradele (grilled). Wash it all down with a glass of rakija (brandy) or travarica (an herbal spirit). For a late-night snack or breakfast, try burek, a savory cheese-filled phyllo pastry, with a cup of the Turkish-style coffee favored by Croats at the myriad of bakeries in Varoš—the historic heart of town—that are open into the wee hours.
Nightlife After dark, any hip Zadrani walks to the Garden, a minimalist-chic boîte atop the city walls opened by UB40 drummer James Brown and music producer Nick Colgan, for live jazz, Latin grooves, or electronica. Sip a local Karlovačko beer and play a game of chess or just soak up the seductive loungey, relaxed atmosphere that seems distinctly European.
By Sea The marina is full of boats vying to ferry you to the Zadar archipelago, where beaches, medieval villages, and snorkeling excursions await. Take a half-day trip to Dugi Otok, the largest island, to spend an idyllic afternoon on the sandy, uncrowded Saharun beach.
Ship Shape 100 annual cruise calls stop in Zadar, including ships from Crystal Cruises, Silversea Cruises, and Voyages to Antiquity. —Margaret Loftus
http://imageshack.us/a/img716/6282/oun5.jpg
Classic Comfort
Gdańsk, Poland: Old Town, New Energy
From star Hanseatic trading port to the straw that broke the back of communist rule, Gdańsk’s thousand-year history is evident everywhere you look.
The Scene Gdańsk grabbed headlines back in the 1980s as the birthplace of the Solidarity movement, which led to the toppling of communist rule in Central Europe, but the town’s history goes much deeper. Part of a triumvirate of cities, with Gdynia and Sopot, the enclave was founded a thousand years ago and once prospered as a Hanseatic League trading port. The city’s Old Town was rebuilt after intense World War II bombing, but it’s still evocative of its heyday. “Everywhere you go you are reminded about the history,” says Kuba Sikorski, a gallery owner in the Old Town. “When you walk through Mariacka Street, it’s so easy to imagine the merchants in their hurry rushing to the port.”
City Gem In an urban center rich with monuments, St. Mary’s Basilica looms largest. Built between the 14th and 16th centuries, it’s one of the grandest brick churches in the world. The interior is just as inspiring with soaring vaults and a 15th-century astronomical clock built by Hans Düringer. Climb the nearly 400 steps to the top of the tower for a memorable panoramic city view.
Insider’s Tip Get an early start, suggests Sikorski. “I love the Old Town early in the morning, when the city slowly wakes up with the sound of church bells—and there are many here—and pigeons fluttering about.” Amble down storied Mariacka Street and marvel at its Gothic buildings, many of them reconstructed to their former glory from original stone.
Local Flavor Invented in Gdańsk in the 16th century when gold was believed to have medicinal properties, gold-flecked herbal Goldwasser liqueur is the local post-pierogi nightcap at Goldwasser Restaurant.
Nightlife Known for its resort spas, Sopot—Gdańsk’s sister city a half-hour train ride away—has become the spot for nightlife with its street performers, restaurants, and clubs (including the iconic Spatif, open since the 1960s) around Bohaterów Monte Cassino Street.
By Sea Windy and natural, Hel Peninsula—a train ride from Gdańsk or an hour via summertime ferry from Gdynia—is nirvana for kite-surfing and windsurfing.
Ship Shape 29 annual cruise calls in Gdańsk; 72 in the sister port of Gdynia, including ships from Princess, Seabourn, and Regent Seven Seas Cruises. —Margaret Loftus
http://imageshack.us/a/img17/9534/s5w5.jpg
Rocky Islands
Ajaccio, France: Napoleon’s Island in the Sun
Mediterranean French with Italian flair, Ajaccio is part café society and part mountain culture. But these lush hillsides hide a serious independent streak.
The Scene “Ajaccio, set deep in a curling bay enclosed by high mountains … suggested nothing so much as an eighteenth-century engraving, cut out and pasted on a photograph of this tremendous landscape to make a surrealist collage,” wrote Dorothy Carrington of her approach by ship to the city in her 1971 travel chronicle, Granite Island: A Portrait of Corsica. On land, Carrington became enchanted with the gateway to Corsica—colonized by Greece, ruled for centuries by Genoa, and now a region of France—with its pastel buildings fronting the harbor, palm-fringed public squares, and cheerful cafés.
City Gem You might say that Ajaccio has a Napoleon complex. As the birthplace of General Bonaparte, the town presents multiple paeans to the onetime emperor of France. If you have to choose one, make a pilgrimage to Musée National de la Maison Bonaparte.
Insider’s Tip Explore the Marché Central d’Ajaccio, the daily outdoor market, near the port, says food writer David McAninch, a devotee of Ajaccio. “It’s a great slice of city life. You don’t have to be shopping for food to enjoy it.” But if you are, pick up a selection of charcuterie made from the island’s chestnut-loving pigs and brocciu, a rich ricotta-like cheese made from sheep’s milk. The Tour de France marks its 100th anniversary in 2013, and for the first time, hilly Corsica has not only been included but will be the starting point.
Local Flavor Corsican cuisine was influenced more by the mountains than the sea. Auberge U Licettu, a ten-mile drive into the hills, is as traditional as it gets, serving rustic fare like wild boar and lamb.
Nightlife Café culture rules in Ajaccio. Sit at a table near the harbor and order a glass of crisp Corsican white wine from Patrimonio or a spot of chilled mirto, a digestive made of myrtle berries.
By Sea Hop a three-hour boat excursion with Découvertes Naturelles to tour the rocky and wild Îles Sanguinaires that dot the entrance to the Gulf of Ajaccio.
Ship Shape 250 cruise calls a year, including ships from Princess, Disney, Seabourn, and Costa. —Margaret Loftus
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/3226/loea.jpg
Port of Power
Valletta, Malta: Star of the Mediterranean
With a deep harbor that’s the envy of Europe, a stunning collection of baroque buildings, and a history rich with knights and chivalrous tales, Valletta is the jewel of Mediterranean itineraries.
The Scene Situated at the base of the Maltese archipelago, Valletta is a fortified peninsula jutting into the inlet that forms the Grand Harbour. Built by the Knights of St. John after they defeated the Ottoman Turks in 1565, the city retains much of its baroque character and air of intrigue. For some 2,000 years it was the most coveted port in the Mediterranean; it was often considered the linchpin of the British Empire.
City Gem Built in 1661 for the enjoyment of Italian knights, the Barrakka Gardens weren’t opened to the public until 1824. The commanding views of the Grand Harbour and Valletta’s three sister cities of Senglea, Vittoriosa, and Cospicua are unbeatable. The garden paths are lined with monuments commemorating the island’s tumultuous history, from a tribute to Winston Churchill to a touching trio of street urchins cast in bronze by Maltese sculptor Antonio Sciortino. A cannon is fired at noon and sunset as a salute to British rule on the island.
Insider’s Tip “Must-visits include the Manoel Theatre, one of the oldest still functioning baroque theaters in the world, and St. John’s Co-Cathedral, which is also the home of Caravaggio’s masterpiece ‘Beheading of St. John the Baptist,’” says Maltese-born tenor Joseph Calleja.
Local Flavor Seafood figures prominently on the menus in Valletta—lampuki (dorado), octopus, and snails are big here. The national meal is fenkata, a rabbit feast whose origins date to the days of the knights when rabbit hunting was restricted. Locals get their fenkata fix at Ta’ Soldi in Mgarr, well worth the 30-minute drive inland.
Nightlife The resort areas of Paceville and St. Julian are disco-party central. The mellower crowd heads to the open-air BJ’s Live Music Club for jazz and rock and the seaside Bedouin Bar, a whitewashed version of a traditional nomadic camp, for its casual scene.
By Sea Ship out on a Turkish gulet for a day cruise along the northeast coast of Malta. The best stops include a snorkeling expedition off the island of Gozo—which many believe inspired the mythical Ogygia, where the nymph Calypso held Odysseus captive in Homer’s Odyssey—and in the Blue Lagoon, part of Comino island’s nature reserve.
Ship Shape 311 cruise calls in 2011, including Regents Seven Seas, Seabourn, and Silversea. —Margaret Loftus
source (http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/europe-small-ports-photos-traveler/#/01-ports-alesund-norway_62564_600x450.jpg)